Another Trip

2006-05-24T03:07:00.000-07:00

USA

A slight delay in writing this section due to getting home and it actually being a lot more difficult to get access to a computer in the Uk than the jungles of Nicaragua.

Anyway back in Mexico turned out that the hostel I stayed in was next to an all night club, well as I left at 5.00am, it could have stopped before dawn, but very unlikely. However, it was a good indication fof how long I had been travelling that I despite the incessant noise I did get a good nights sleep. A fairly uneventful trip to the airport, other to see that it probably didnt matter where you stayed in cancun, you would always be next to an all night club.

Surprisingly also got though immegration and customs in the states fairly easily, though a few questions as to how I could get six months off work. Still I persuaded them that as I disliked work so much and loved long holidays, there was no way i was going to stay in the states to work illegally given their average holiday entitlement is in single figures.

My biggest surprise was the amount of people on the flight to Omaha, I has expected it to be me and the pilot. The guy I sat next to spent the whole trip informing me how much to do in Omaha. By the time I arrived I felt that I should have budgeted the entire four months for Nebraska, rather than three days.

I was being met at airport by Jen, wife of one of my friends, who I had never met. This is where being exceeding tall has an advantage as I am very difficult to miss. Is at least some compensation for the discomfort that comes with being tall on most forms of transport, especially buses in central america and planes anywhere.

Ed and Jen

The following day it was off to see the sights of Omaha, and while not being as prolific as I was lead to believe on the plane there was a good number of things to see and do. The oddest thing was coming to somehere it was palpably sping after three months in the tropics. The trees, the flowers, the animals, even the colour of the sky were noticably different. Went on a hike in the afternoon and was odd to see flora and fauna from northern hemisphere rather than the exotic species that had occupied the last few months. In the eveing went into the centre of town which ahd been pleasantly restored. Did however go to a very average Mexican resteraunt which was bizzarly turning away customers when it had numerous free tables.

Downtown Omaha, not the best resteraunt despite the setting

Next day headed off to the strategic air command museum and space centre. It was literally in the middle of nowhere, 30 miles outside nebraska. This did mean it could take up a massive area and had virually every plane the US air force had flown since the second world war. It also had a Mig fighter and a vulcan bomber, which reminded me of home as these had flown from an airfield down the road when I was growing up.

In the afternoon it was off to the Mall to stack up on cheap jeans and electronic goods and to experience the Nebraska stae dish, which was some sort of cheese hot dog. In the evening went off to try and find some deer which apparently roamed close to wher my friends lived. Each time we had come home they had said they would be in the field, but never were. However, we did indeed track them down in a catholic seminary just up the road. A quite worrying place with a statue of jesus on the cross in the middle of the woods.

Next day it was off to Chicago to see some more friends. First stop on arrival was for a typical Chicago dish, which was some sort of cheese hot dog !! They were actually very different. Having 'done' Chicago before went off to see a bit of Lake Michigan. Next day weather had taken a distinct turn for the worse and was even snow on way to the airport. Something of a shock, having been 70+ the day before. I was also suffering as I only had T-shirts to wear. Luckily when I arrived in Philadelphia the sun was out.
Nikki and Laura, Hannah being too shy to be photographed

After a quick look round Philly it was off to the pub for a few beers, not long now till some proper beer. next day it was out with all the tourists, and far too many groups of school kids to see the sights. Philadelphia is probably the most historical of all the American cities having the liberty bell and being the place where the declaration of independance was signed and the first capital till Washington was built. It also was the home of Benjamin Franklin, the woman who made the first stars and stripes and of course the home of the Rocky movies.

After a morning doing the historical sights, did take an inordinate amount of time to get a picture of the liberty bell due to the never ending procession of school kids whose sole purpose seemed to be to get in the way of my photo. It was then off for a tour of the scene of the signing of the declaration of independance, not that impressive a building to be honest, though interesting to note that the first draft included the abolition of slavery, but this was overturned by the southern states. Then round the Franklin museum, which was very interesting and informative . Was less impressed by them trying to charge $2 to see his grave. As it was next to the wall did manage to see it for nothing. Then off for lunch to have a typical philadelphia dish, no this was in fact a cheese stake, not a hot dog !

The Liberty Bell

In the afternoon it was time for my Rocky impressions running up the steps of the art museum. Half expected there to be some enterprising individual offering to play the music as you ran up. Howver, unlike Rocky I then decided to have a look round the museum. Had a great collection of paintings and artefacts, though did have a Disneylike section where they had recreated a norman church. Having one of these in my village didnt really see the need to have one recreated in a museum. Still really liked Philly, especially being able to walk all round the centre and everything being clearly sign posted.
Didn't spot Rocky

Well after four months have reached the final night of the trip, which was celebrated by having a curry and a few beers. Next day just time to go to buy some cheap trainers, only to be told that they didnt take credit cards without photo ID. Not wanting to carry my passport round the streets of Philadelphia (good title for a song !) had to abandon my dhoes and head off to catch the plane.

Steve and Bridgit, who I met on a previous Drago trip in Middle East

Since I have got back have got a job offer from RMIT, despite the interview on the phone in Nicaragua, so it looks like I will be heading back to Australia. Unfortunately doesn't look like I will be able to take another four months getting there.

2006-04-16T08:39:00.000-07:00

La Ruta Maya

Ridiculously early start at 4.00am. This is because the only shuttle bus to Copan acts as a one day trip for those people who just want to see the ruins. for those of us who want to stay a few days it is either this or taking a local bus, which is jam packed and takes about 10 hours. Not that shuttle buses are much better and there is the increased risk of armed robbery as people know they have rich, or not so rich, tourists. However, it would be fair to say that thedrivers of these buses are by far the biggest danger. It is not clear whether it is better for them to have an open road when they can scream along at 100+ km/h, even round hairpin bends with100+m sheer drops or to be behind a slow lorry giving out enough exhaust fumes to raise global warming by at least one degree. The second option also means that the driver is liable to pull out at any momment, usually coinciding with a stream of on coming traffic to overtake. The best position in the bus is also a matter of debate. The front seat has extra leg room but does give a close up view of every near miss, leading to a very stressful journey. In the back you dont see the full horror but neither can you brace yourself for the continuous braking and swerving, and so you get thrown around, often just as you are going to have a drink, resulting in most of it going over you. Though this does have the benefit of cooling you down as air conditioning is a rarity.

The driver today was particularly annoying, playing loud music and not being very helpul at the border, where he went to sort out the visas. Bus drivers generally do this in central america, supposedly to speed things up but I suspect mainly to rip you off, charging an extra dollar or two for the visa. All the hassle at border lead to me thinking I had lost a credit card when I got to hotel, as it was not in the ususal safe place. However, just as I was heading to telephone exchange I found it in an even safer place.

Copan, sort of reclaimed from the wild

Had a quiet afternoon wandering round town and sitting in the garden at the hotel having a quiet beer watching sun set over the river and mountains. Would have to say this was the best hotel I had stayed at on the trip. Next day went off to see the Mayan ruins with a few people from the hotel. This meant we could share the cost for guide. They were an English/Japanese couple with their daughter who was teaching diving in Utilla. The site itself was very impressive, with quite a bit having been painstakingly restored. There were, however, still some of the biggest trees I had seen just growing out of the sides of the temples. At one point the river had cut through the site, but had now been diverted. The city had been home to about 30,000 at its hight in 700AD, but had collapsed with over farming. Somewhat worrying to see slash and burn still occuring on the hillsides around, given the reasons for the demise of the Maya. In the museum, which opened next day after a 18 month closure, was an example of the red/white colour scheme used for all the buildings. I have to say not sure I could have stood an entire city this colour. Also have to say that guide was execellent, he worked on the restoration during the low season, and had great english and a thorough understanding of the site and Mayan history. The restored area consisted of the main temple and living complex. From the top of the royal palace got a great perspective on the layout of the city and the size of the whole complex.

In the afternoon went riding. Did a three hour trip out to a Hacienda, a small mayan site and a local village. The village was the poorest place I had been on the entire trip. There was a plaque to commemorate electricity being connected in 2004. Also had the chance to show our incompetance in making tortilla's as well as my own with the riding. Again had a good guide, who came along with his 10 year old son. Although he had no english, we managed to get by with our smattering of spannish, must be improving. Another night watvhing the sun go down with a beer.
Not quite the magnificent seven, though the horse did its best

Mext day I went off to a bird sanctuary. Not ususally a fan of seeing birds in cages, or animals in zoos, but this place had been set up from birds found hurt and those that had been handed in by owners whose birds had outgrown their cages. Given the size of the Macaws and some parrots could believe this. As most of the birds are domesticated they are not easily able to be released into the wild. While some look a bit sad in cages about thirty are free to fly around. This gave a great opportunity to audition for the next pirates of the carribean film and do a Long John Silver impression. On way back got a lift from the police. In general have found police and army pretty friendly and helpful in central america, and given the reputation for lawlessness and robbery generally happy to see them, which is not always the case when travelling as they can often be the people most likely to rip you off.
Pieces of eight

Next day headed back to Guaremala. Sad to leave Honduras so soon, but as often happens not enough time to go everywhere i would like. Things made even worse by approaching the end of the trip and the need to be in certain places by a certain date. Bit of a roundabout trip to rio Dulce. There were no direct buses, and they would only run a special tourist shuttle if there are four people. despite asking round town I was still three short. I did manage to get part of the way on a shuttle bus returning to Antigua, which included getting back over the border. however, at Rio Hondo, I had to wait for a local bus. This time I had a very nice driver who dropped me at the bus stop and actually bought me the ticket. When it turned up bus was packed and I had to stand, just grateful to get on. After a couple of hours got a seat and I would say that it was far more comfortable to stand given the amount of leg room. The Guatemalans must be the smallest peole I have ever come across. Ariived at Rio Dulce no problem and was met by a guy at the information booth at the bus stop who offered to ring my hostel to get them to send a boat. I happily waited at the dock, a boat turned up, I said Tortugal, he nodded happily so I got in only to be taken to Tijax, sure my spanish isnt that bad. I then had to wait another half an hour to get boat back before at the second attempt a boat from Tortugal did turn up.

Rio Dulce is, unsurprisingly, on the Rio Dulce river and most of the accomodation is spaced along the river and easier to access by boat. It is a major port for yhats heading down central america and most people staying had arrived in their own yacht. The hotel room was more like atree house perched above the dock. Great view of river, but a bit dicy climbing up with a rucksack. Also fair few mossies about, did provide mosquito nets, but dont seem to be able to ever get them to cover the whole bed. Did a walk along river bank next day, which is mostly jungle and got bitten to death. Also took out a kayak, which was designed for Guatemalans and so was a bit of a sqeeze to get in, nor did it feel very stable.

Next day headed off to Flores. At bus stop was informed that the buses were so full for Semana Santa that there was not even space to stand, think this might have been a con to get us to buy the expensive bus tickets. After a big debate and some haggling agreed with a dutch couple to pay 25 dollars each for a taxi. Ended up being a bit of a scary trip as after an hour the driver, rather than the car, overheated. Spent the rest of the journey giving him all our water to keep him going.

Flores is a great place, on an island in the middle of a Lake. Only place in Guatemala felt completey comfortable walking streets at night, probably helped that it was easter and lots of locals out. Also first place where evey shop didnt have its own armed guard. The town has a bit of an arabic feel, with small winding streets, bit like a souk. Even the resteraunt I went to had middle eatsren food.
Yet more amazing temples

Next morning it was another 4.00am start to get to Tikal for sunrise. Even though it was cloudy it was definitely worth it seeing daylight break from the top of a temple in the middle of the jungle. Tikal consits on a number of major temples, 50 to 60 m tall, with some smaller buildings. While the temples have been mostly restored only one other small area has been cleared. this gives it a Indian Jones, Jules Verne feel. The temples rise up above the forest canopy and when you climb them you can see the other temples and even look down on the birds in the trees. Should have brought a thesaurus as am running out of words to describe the views. The jungle remains completely in tact, get an idea of how quickly if takes over as one temple has been excavated by early archeologists about 100 years ago. It is now difficult to tell how it differs from the other unexcavated sites. These temples and jungle were used as the site of the rebel base in Return of the Jedi and it did feel a bit like another world, though even more like going back in time. The site is massive and was nearly 6.00pm before I left, feeling somehat shattered.

Final day in Guatemala went for a small trip on the Lake, bought last few souvenirs and tried to catch up on my sleep. Also staring with a cold and feeling generally run down. Componded by having one of the worst meal of my trip. In general Guatemala has had the worst food of the whole trip.
Whatch out for giant killer dinosaurs, or imperial stormtroopers.

Quite pleased to be flying to belize as feel awful with a major cold now. At one point looks like I will have plane to myself, but four others turn up and off we go. A greta flight, sitting just behind pilot and can see all the instruments as well as seeing where we are going´, something I miss in proper planes. Arriving in belize is like being in a different country (well continent then). Everone speak English, with a distinct Carribean drawl and the Queen is on the currancy, though prices have gone through the roof. On avaergae everything has doubled in price. Got a taxi to the dock and then boat to Cay Amerbergris, known as La Isla Bonita, as in Madonna song.

Feeling pretty miserable with my cold and all I can manage is to sit on the verandha and read my book and look at the view for the next couple of days. This does at least save me money and have Sky TV with english commentators on the football, amazing how good even David pleat sounds after the spanish guys screaming gooooooooool every few minutes, irrespective of whether there has been a goal.
La Isla Bonita, a tough life !

After a few days doing nothing started to feel better and appreciate how beautiful the coatline actually is. Did a couple of snorkeling trips. This is supposed to be some of the best diving and snorkelling in the world and certainly was teeming with marine life. This included sharks, rays, turtles as well as a myriad of other fish whose names I dont know but who have the most amazing shapes and colours. Also headed over to Caye Caulker, smaller key about 5 miles away.

Very disappointed to leave Belize as felt not made the most of it but was a good place to recuperate and probably best place to be ill in central america. I decided to fly out, great view of the reef and saved 5 hours taking the bus and boat and only cost 10 dollars more. At customs had to find someone to pay the money to leave, typical laid back carribbean country and on to Mexico. quite odd going back to speaking spanish again, though most people were fluent in English. Got best bus since Chile, and it was only the second class and arrived in Tulum.

With only two full days in mexico a bit whistle stop and so signed up for a tour to Chitchen Itza to see the last big Mayan site of the trip. This even had air conditioning, getting very soft. On the way to Chitchen Itza stopped at a sink hole, these are places the Yucatan peninsular gets most of its water, though there was a posh resteraunt here and you could even swim.

Chitchen Itza was at its height a bit later than the other sites and had Toltec influence. The construction certainly seemed more advanced and the carvings more intricate.There was also supposed to be some Aztec influence here and far more human sacrifices were found than at previous sites. There had also been a lot of restoration, with most of the trees taken from the main plaza, giving a good idea of the size. The most famous temple is of the serpant god and is designed such that on the equinox the shadows from the edge of the west side make it appear that a snake is moving down the staircase on the north towards the sacrificial pond. Strange to think that all the mathematics, astronomy and engineering they had, but still they came to a sudden end due to over population. A cautionary tale for today.
One more temple

Back in Tulumturns out to be a haven for mossies and sand flies, probably the most bitten I have been, not helped by fact that almost impossible to keep them out of the room at night. As such wake up with well biteen arms and legs. Last full day it is off to the ruins at Tulum. These are pretty small but right on the coast giving them a wondeful setting. However, due to their small size they were somewhat overwhelemed by the number of tourist. This has been the first place where the place has been adversly affected by the number of tourist. but ceratinly made it dificult to take it all in and wander round undisturbed with hunderds of people scarambling all over the place.
A final visit to the beach and then it is off to get the last bus upto Cancun and to say goodbye to central america. Have to say I have enjoyed it more than I expected and that the spanish has improved, though that isnt saying a lot.

2006-04-03T09:08:00.000-07:00

Guatemala

After all the hassles is Nicaragua of course everything went perfectly the day I left. For the first time I can remember in all my travels a local bus left, literally, the second I arrived and put my bag on board. So different from the norm, when, even if the bus appears full, it still drives round town for another half hour getting at least another dozen people on board. This one even left with some seats unfilled ! After a hassle free trip arrived in Managua, which from my brief impression appeared to be small, dirty and very hot, much like every other central american capital. However, as soon as I got off the bus a taxi appeared and offered to take me to the airport for less than I had been told was the going rate, again unprecedented, especially in Nicaragua, which had been the most money grabbing of the countries I had visited, though Brazil ran it close, and they were more unfriendly while they were ripping you off. Here at least they had done it with a smile, while they charged miles above the local rate.

The only drawback with arriving early was more time to fill at the airport. There was a slight delay while I found the check in desk and then the departure gate. The airport was being upgraded and was a large, unsignposted, building site. Indeed all the central american countries were undergoing large building programmes. A hopeful sign that the countries are stable enough to be undertaking large scale infrastructure projects, though somewhat frustrating as you get caught up in the traffic jams and delays that accompany them.

On finding my way to the departure gates I bumped into a girl I had met at the lagoon, whose flight had been delayed. Still good news for me as it gave me someone to talk to to pass the time. It would be interesting to reckon up the amount of time spent waiting for transport while travelling. Indeed travelling is generally large expanses of boredom, followed by short burst of activity. My good luck continued as both my flight to San Jose and my connection to Guatemala City were on time. I had also, cunningly, kept some Costa Rican money to buy some food at the airport. On arrival at Guatemala City I was surprised by the lack of mayhem at the airport check out. probably due to a large police presence. Gualemala has the reputation as the most dangerous of the central american countries with armed robbery and the holding up of buses by bandits happening on a rather too frequent occurance. On exiting the airport I found a man with a placard for the shuttle to Antigua and on being informed that I had no reservation rang the hotel I hoped to stay at to confirm it has a place.

A trouble free trip took me to Antigua, where I was actually unable to reach my hotel due to a religious procession. I had not realised how religious south and central america remained. Central America in particular celebrated saints days and festivals such as lent and easter with a religious fervour not associated with christianity in northern Europe, with vast crowds turning out to see the procession of religious artifacts and images. This procession was lead by a wooden carved sculpture of christ carrying the cross. Antigua is, in fact, the centre of the semana santa (holy week) celebrations in both Guatemala and the whole of central america. I was informed that accomodation would be impossible to find in Antigua that week and not easy through anywhere in central america.
Antigua, ex capital of central american republic

As such I spent the next two days in a mixture of planning my remaining route, reading the lonley planet, searching the web and emailg hotels and hostesl to secure accomodation. With the end of the trip looming it was also a priority to be close to my final destination with a few days till my flight, rather than having to secure a passage across one or even two borders, given the randomness of some of the transport. I had noticed that following my exit from the organised part of the trip in Rio I was taking longer and longer in places. Some of this was probably due to a reaction against the rushing of the trip, some due to places being worth the extra days and also a bit due to travel fatigue. Transport and accomodation are always the worst parts of independent travel.

This planning was mixed with wandering around Antigua. Antigua is an old colonial town which was the capital of all central america under the Spanish. This included parts of Mexico, but not Panama, which was an independept colony. After independence from spain it continued as a single country for about 10 years, when political struggle between left and right lead to the formation of the present day countries, though the Guatemala/Belize border is still a matter of conflict, not armed at the momment, luckily. In 1773, after one eathrquake too many the capital was moved to Guatemal City. Following this earthquake and move a large number of cathederals, churches and houses remain as ruins. The ruins give an idea of the power of an earthquake, as sections of masonry as big as rooms, or in some cases houses are scattered around. I can also say that from a proffessional opinion these were well built structures, as would be expected of the most prestigeous buildings in the capital city.

Evidence of seismic activity

It was also interesting noting that the interior of the churches that had been rebuilt were very plain for catholic churches, no painted icons, statues etc, probably due to the continuous seismic activity reducing them to rubble at regular intevals. The churches were, hower, full of carved wooden images on plinths that were, presumably to be paraded round town. They could also easily be removed should an earthquake or a volcanic eruption threaten. Antigua is also volcano central, with four visible from the rooftop of my hotel, one of which was happily smoking away. Personally I preferred these churches to the normal catholic churches which I find somewhat garish, ostetacious, unwelcoming and in some case downright scary. Not that protestant churches are much btter, generally being cold, draft and unhospitable and again quite intimidating. In gereral I have found most other religions strucures, mosques, temples etc more welcoming. There interiors tend to be more interesting and less intimidating. Indeed the mosques I have visited have seemed more like a community centre with people going in for a chat and I have also seen people sleeping, chatting and even children playing football. The architecture also compares with the great gothic cathederals, especiallythe blue mosque at Esfahan and the golden temple at Amritsar. Though I do find it interesting and annoying the amount of affluence in religious buildings compared to the poverty that surrounds most of them.

Coffee laid out to dry

Enough of religion and politics and back to the trip. Having spent a couple of days wandering round Antigua decided it was time to head out to see more of Guatemala. First stop was a coffee finica, I am not a great fan of coffee but was interested to see how it was produced. I did pick an establishment that had a reputation for being ecologically friendly. They had stopped using pestacides but did still use herbicides occasionally should the coffee be attacked. Coffee seeds are actaully red in colour and they are then stripped and cleaned a number of times before being laid in the sun to get that brown colour and finally roasted. The best beans are than selected for export grade Guatemalan coffee, while the rest go into blends and instant coffee. generally only instant is available in Guatemala.
Local Maya woman at the market.
Looks like butter wouldn't melt in her mouth but took me for every penny I had !

Next day I went to one of the big local markets at Chichicastenanga. This has become a bit of a tourist trap, but there is still a real local market going on. It is also out in the countryside populated by descendants of the Maya. It is easy to spot the difference between the Maya and those descended from the spanish, both in facial features and clothing. Most Maya still dress in traditional costume, which is very colourful. The town also has a couple of small chuches which were the most interesting I have visited,being a cross between Maya religion and catholicism. The churches were full of corn and maize, sacred to the Maya, being burned at alters and on the floor of the church.

Having done both these trips from Antigua, which is helpfully centrally located and full of travel agencies offering shuttle buses, decided to head off to see another part of the country. I took a three day trip to Coban, Lanquin and Semuc-Champey. This went via the outskirts of Guatemala City, and having seen it in daylight I am very glad I didnt spend any time there. It was dirty and polluted and I was informed very dangerous, especially the local buses, with robbery and even murder being quite common. Most of this is gamg and drug related, but tourists are also targeted and in no circumstances should a foreigner take a local bus in the capital.

Having passed Guatemal city headed out into the countryside. I was surpried by how mountainous the landscape was, the mountains here were far more impressive and stark than those I had seen previously in central America. One thing that was also noticable was the amount of deforristation that had taken place. This has been due to colleting firewood, growing crops and also to increase beef production for hamburgers, another reason to avoid McDonald's. One a more cheery note I did note some replanting, though strangely this was with pine trees. Apparantly they grow faster. Up in the mountains it was notacable that I was getting further north. The trees and plants were those that can be observed in northern Europe and the US and as well as the exotic birds, sparrows were evident.

Arrived in Coban quite late and didnt get chance to see to much of the town, though it didnt look that appealing. Headed off early to Lanquin and having stopped for breakfast changed into pick up truck for the last 20km. It was soon evident why. This was definitely the worst road I had taken on this trip and possible one the worst ever. The scenary, however, was fantastic, when I had chance to look round, rather than hang on for grim death. On arrival at Semuc-Champey went to a set of swimming pools that are in one of the rivers below a set of major rapids. The water was somewaht cool, though having been brought up on the east coast of England , not that cold. Some of the locals were however suffering and were shivering. I was quite pleased to be cool for once.

In the afternoon went to the caves back at Lanquin. These were pretty much a do it yourself affair, with some basic lighting and steps installed. All in all made it a bit of an adventure, but not the most impressive caves I have ever been to. Next day we heased off to the Quetzal Biosphere reserve, though apparantly the chances of seeing a quetzal there are pretty remote. Indeed while the place was quite scenic, hardly saw any birds let alone a quetzal. They did however, have a dead one in a cabinet. Quite interesting to see one close up, but I preferred the glimpse of the live one I had seen in the cloud forrest in Costa Rica.

From here returned to Antigua considerably faster than we had come until we reached the outskirst of town. here we hit a massive traffic jam. This sunday was the first of the big processions building up to semana santa. It appeared that all of Guatemala, if not central america was trying to get into town. Took well over an hour to do the last 5km. In town there actually appeared to be more people dressed up to be in the processions than watching. All the participants has puple frocks on with while head dresses, the clothes resembling those that shepherds wear in christmas plays. Not sure why the purple colour. The different staues are then paraded around town to different points. with a band and the pilgrims following. The streets have sawdust (sand) put in them. There were a total of three processions this sunday. The last finishing at mid night. Different churches hold seperate processions, and if it wasnt unchristian, you would think they were in direct competition.

next day headed down to Panajchel, which is on Lake Atitilan. Yet more amazing topography. The Lake is completey surrounded by sheer cliffs in all directions. Indeed has appearance of being a gigantic crater itself. However, around it a three volcano´s. while at Antigua they lurked in the distance, here they loom around the lake. The lake has a number of small villages built into the hillsides. The easiest, and is some places, only way to get to these villages is by boat. I visited a number, including Satiago, San Pedro and San Marco. The Santiago was the most scenic, with a small market and church. it also has a Maya/Christian god Maximon, who every child in town offered to take me to see. The other two villages were more like hippy communes, full of dropouts both modern and originals.
Yet another volcano, from Santiago church, Lake Atitilan

One of the best things about Pana was staying a bit away from the centre and eating at the local resteraunts. Had a couple of best meals I have had in Guatemal. which is not a centre of culinary excellence. At these resteraunts could watch the women preparing the food and have a somewhat limited conversation with them as they cooked.

After three days hanging out round the village returned to Antigua to catch bus to Copan, Honduras, and the start of the Ruta De Maya. Unfortunately the bus left at 4.00am and was the only one.

2006-03-11T20:30:00.000-08:00

Panama, Costa Rica and Nicaragua

Arrived safely in Panama, though did have some fun trying to find the hostal I had booked. It was supposed to be next to a resteraunt, which the taxi found OK, but no hostel. Luckily an old american couple who were eating in resteraunt heard me asking for the hostel. Offered to ring number for me to ask. Turned out it was actually about 10 doors down, with very, very small sign. Nice to meet some helpul americans having had the usual hassle going through immigration and customs in Miami, though why you have to go through immigration and custom when you are only in transit remains a mystery.

Having eventually found hostel,was a nice place run by slightly mad canadian guy married to a Panamanian woman. Went out saturday morning to see the canal with a couple of people staying at hostel and learning spanish at the scool downstairs. Canal is amazing, had not realised that thheir were actually two locks in parrallel to allow two ships to go through simultaneously. There are two sets of locks on Pacific side, I just went to those at Miraflores. There is a third set at the Atlantic side.
Panama Canal A fantastic bit of engineering, and some nifty steering of the boat as well

In afternoon headed off to the Puerto Viejo (old port) which had been site of original city which had been burnt to the ground by British pirate Henry Morgan (not sure but think he may have been rewarded by being made govenor of Jamaica). The old ruins are pretty impressive, with quite a lot still standing. Next day headed down to Casco Antiguo, the old town that was built after the pirate raid. This is in a very dodgy part of town and only the first four blocks are safe to walk round, but area is slowly being renevated. The national theatre in aprticular is very impressive. Other than this one area Panama City is very safe, area I stayed in has lots of resteraunts and bars and no problems walking round at night. While it is fairly safe not much else to see and headed off monday to Carribbean coast and Bocas del Torres.

All that was left of Panama city after the British had finished with it

Had a flight to Bocas in plane which had probably been state of the art in the 50´s (1850´s). Still with a lot of encouragement from passengers it managed to take off and despite a few bumps had a incident free flight, not sure I would have like to have flown in bad weather and definitely glad not flying back. Stayed in Bocas at a great place, run by very mad Canadian woman, bit of a theme starting here. very odd walking the streets of Bocas as there were more Americans than Panamanians. Fell into three main types, the 18 to 22 students on spring break, the pensioners who had retired to some where hot and a load of hippies would had read too many Hemmingway books or think they are in Pirates of the Carribbean. I kid you not, there was some bloke sitting in a cafe with a parrot on his shoulder. Have to say that if I had wanted to be surrounded by Americans I would have gone to America.

After arriving on a fantastic sunny da, the next three days proceeded to show the other side of the tropics. with considerable volumes of rain, often in a very short period of time. Still I did manage to get to a few nice beaches, including red frog beach, where they do indeed have red frogs.

Having got fed up of the rain decided to move on to Costa Rica, and of course as soon as I leave weather improves. It was a cool trip back to the mainland in a speedboat, through the mangrove swamps and then got a bus to the border. When I say border I do in fact mean a rickety old bridge which you walk across at your own peril. So laid back that I actually walked straight passed the immigration as I was chatting to a couple of other people. Having been sent back be a small show shine boy, did manage to get my passport stamped at officially enter Costa Rica.

An actual red frog

Headed down to San Jose, via Porto Veijo and Cuahita, both very laid back spots on the coats. I have to say that I thought the beaches here were better than Panama, though may have been as the sun was shining, rather than the rain pourring down. Having reached San Jose first thing I wanted to do was leave. Pretty miserable and grim place, certainly didnt feel totally safe on the streets. Also took three places to find somewhere to stay, which was a hostal inhabited by a hundred identical 22 year old Americans. All of the straight off central casting from the lastest American sitcom. After one day I was out of there heading for the hills, or more correctly the volcano. Next stop was La Fortuna at foot of the Arenal volcano, which is still apparantly very active.

First day in La Fortuna did a nature walk at Hanging Bridges through the cloud forrest with great guide called Donald. Had his own telescope and found incredible number of birds and animals, as well as the incredible number of insects, butterflies, plants and trees. The whole place is biodiversity gone mad and there is a massive active volcano slp bang in middle of it. During the day can se rocks bouncing down the side, but these look just like puffs of smoke. At night can se the red colour. When they bounce down they brake up and are just like giant fireworks. Apparantly this volcano has these lava rocks rather than flowing lava, but looks amazing. Quite happy not to be allowed within 2 miles of the volcano. The only problem is that the rocks fall down on the side away from the town, so you have to stay at an expensive hotel to see the fireworks at night.

Biodiversity gone mad

Also should point out that contrary to the stereotypical Americans I met in San Jose I met some very interesting, intelligent and well travelled Americans on these trips who were great fun ( though they were not 22, perhaps I am just showing my age)

Next day decided to do some white water rafting. The river was supposed to be grade 3 and 4, but the water levels were pretty low and more like 2 and 3. Also got stuck on the rocks a few times, due to the low water levels, which did spoil things a bit. The just to cap the day off we crashed into another raft which was stuck and another guy in the raft hit me with his paddle in the confusion. Am now sporting a nice black eye.

Decided it was time to take things easy and was getting waterfall withdrawl sysmptoms so did a 6km hike to the waterfall outside town. Even on this hike saw an amazing amount of flora and fauna, and had a nice swim under the waterfall when I arrived.

Real life active volcano, can see lava at night
(but not with my camera) so here is a daylight shot

Decided to head off towards the Nicaraguan border for the day to wildlife refuge on the river at Cano Negro. A couple of hours up the road by bus and then a 3 hour cruise along the river. Saw thre species of monkies, Howler, Capuchin and Spider, as well as loads of birds, turtles and caymen, as well as some massive iguanas and a couple of sloths, who were taking things easy. Interesting how many of the species here were also present in South America.
A sloth, with the right idea, doing nothing

Finally managed to drag myself away from La Fortuna and on to Monteverde and the cloud forests. Stayed in a place called Sainta Elena and actually found it quite hard to get a cheap hotel for once. Still in the end did find a pretty good place at a cheap price. First night there decided to do a night walk in the Childrens eternal Rainforest (yes an odd name). Caught a great sunset looking down to the Pacific cioats in the distance, about 40km away. Still walk was very interesting, saw a porcupine, loads of birds just sleeping in the trees and a woodpecker in his hole who just poked his head out to see us, looking very annoyed at being woken up. also saw frogs and scorpions, but real highlight were a number of tarantula spiders. These things were huge and moved faster than a cheetah. The guide used a stick to tap ground in front of their hole and the pounced on it worryingly quickly.
Giant killer spiders

Next day neaded off to cloud forest at Sainta Elena reserve. True to its word it was in the clouds. Amazing sight with the whole forest being covered in rain,looked like something from another world. Did a 4 hour hike most of the way with a guy I met on the trail. Other than him saw two other people. Saw some birds, including a Quetzal, but little animal life or insects.

next day decide time for a bit of action and did a zip line tour. Essentially this is a load of steel cables fixed between trees in the forest. You are hooked onto the cable and slide down cable, using your hand to brake (you do have gloves). After the first few when I was very wary of falling really enjoyed it. a couple of lines were 400 m or more above forest. Also had a Tarzan swing, which was about 20m high. First step was a big one but great feeling just swinging across a ravine. went with a mad Japones guy and Canadian girl who had just been in film with John Voight.

Some of the plant life

Next day haded off to the Monteverde Reserve. This was a sunny day and complete change in the appearance of the cloud forest. All the plantlife looked very sad with no rain, but a lot more bird, insect and wildlife. Almost got to the point where I could recognise some of the bird calls, certainly the common ones. Met up with an English girl from Chester who lived pretty close to where I used to live when I was up in liverpool, small world. Interestingly have started to meet a few more interesting people since I got away from the beaches, though most are either just travelling in Costa Rica or heading down from mexico, rather than the way I am going. Still does give so good info on places to go and things to do. But dont get chance to travel with anyone or to see people for more than a day or two.

It is a jungle out there !

Next day was up at 4.00am to get bus to Nicaragua. For the first time had a real hold up at border. Not me but the bus. Customs went over it with a fine tooth comb, spending about 2 hours there before we could get back on. Also got charged $8 to get in to country, first place has this as well. Still due to early start arrived in Granada by 2.00pm. Here had to find a up market hotel has an interview for job by phone. Despite staying at one of best hotels in Granada $50 a night, was pretty basic and worse than most other places I had stayed except phone. When call came didnt prove to be a great experience as could hardly hear the people at other end but could clearly hear my own voice bouncing back down the phone. Chances for job look slim.

After this moved into a cheaper place, though this was hassle. In Nicaragua, while the people are very friendly, the story changes every 10 minutes. So you arrange to go back and get bus, tour, room and when you return price has changed, time has changed and route has changed, and they deny ever having said the first story. Still Granada was a very laid back colonial town, with soeminteresting architecture and a great central square. I also did a trip round the 330 islands formed by the eruption of the volcano about 2000 years ago. Last big eruption was 500 years ago. Down on lake loads of people hassling you for a trip, but eventually picked on a young kid who spoke good english and had cheap price. Nice trip, some very expensive houses on these islands and of course you would need your own boat.
Great architecture, and can get a fantastic breakfast sitting opposite

Due to hassles over accomodation haded out to a Lagoon formed by a crater lake near Masaya. Fantastic place, great views and very laid back. Good place to realx away from the hassles of Nicaragua. Also had a vist to Masaya, damous for pottery. Would have like to have bought some, but dont think it would have survived the trip.
Crater Lake, great place to recouver from Nicaragua

Back to Granada for a final night and then off to Managua to fly to Guatemala, and last leg of the central American trip.

2006-03-06T08:06:00.000-08:00

The Trip

Well now the organised part of the trip is over thought I would write a bit about it and the group of people I travelled with. Overland trips are essentially a load of people on a truck going to a pre-arranged set of places. The truck has camping and cooking gear on board and the trip is a mixure of camping at campsites and in the middle of nowhere and the odd hotel. The advantages of an overland trip are that the accomodation and transport is sorted and there is added security of not travelling alone and on public transport. In particular in remote places like southern Argentina and Chile it allows you to travel a lot faster than on public transport and do things in a short time. It was this timeframe that was the main reason I did an organised trip rather than on my own. They have the disadvantage of not being able to stay places you like, being stuck in places you dont and also having a group of people who you are with whether you get on with them or not.

The trip was really two halves. From Santiago to Ushuaia and then from Ushuaia to Rio. The first, while being had work was generally good fun, the second was a lot morer of a drag. The truck itself, while getting stuck and even having the fuel tank punctured by a piece of metal on the road was actually very reliable mechanically, though the slowest thing in South America. The truck had two drivers who also ran the trip. First and foremost the drivers were good drivers and mechanics. They were also very enthusiatstic and helped as much as they could, though did seem to get less interested and more distracted as the trip went on (see below). However, their navigational skills left something to be desired. They weren't helped by the company providing out of date information. But after getting lost most days to Ushuaia would have thought they might have learnt their lesson and done a bit more preparation or asked as a number of passengers had better maps and sense of direction. The info the drivers had on the places was also pretty poor and out of date and by the end most people were just sorting things themselves out.
The truck, mysteriously not stuck or lost

In addition to the 2 drivers there were 27 passengers on the trip, 4 left in Ushuaia to be replaced by 4 more. In general everyone got along pretty well, there being only one person, who left in Ushuaia who really got on my nerves, though probably only another half dozen who I got on really well with. Indeed the trip was lacking in interesting characters. The majority were English with 3 welsh, 3 irish, 2 americans, 1 Austrian and one Dane living in Canada on trip. Ages ranged from 18 to 72.

It was the welsh contingent who I got on best with. They were a couple in their 50's Teg (yes Teg) and Julie. They were up for most things and Julie in particular was alittle mad, going for a swim in a lake at Bariloche before breakfast when it was almost freezing. Luckily Teg also had a map which saved us getting even more lost on a number of occassions. The third of the welsh was Gareth, maths techer in Norwich. Top bloke, when he was awake. He also was one on the splitters who flew from Ushuaia to Buenos Aries, while some of them were missed the space they left was happily accepted.

Gareth, actually awake on truck

There were a further three couple on the truck, the two americans, Nathan and Anna, who were, like most Americans you meet outside America, very pleasant and have a good knowledge of things outside America. Might be best if only those Americans who have travelled were allowed to vote. Nathan was also notable for taking an unfeasibly large amount of photo's. The other couples were both English, though Alex and Alexyana were of Columbian and Greek descent. They were also the best cooks on trip and the biggest splitters having flown from Ushuaia to Ba and then Fo to Rio. Them and their cooking were missed the spare seats gratefully recieved. The final couple were Steve and Ally, who were doing a trip as part of their honeymoon. Steve also worked in construction allowing hours of interesting conversations on concrete.

Steve, another concrete man

The most interesting person on the truck was Aisling, apparantly Irish, though having lived most places and for last 15 years in the US. Something of an enigma wrapped in a paradox (to paraphrase Churchill) at times was frightningly American, though could appreciate the ridiculousness of this and had a cutting sense of humour. Also the centre of most of the intrigue, though much like government secrets should not be revealed for the next 30 years to protect the innocent and not so innocent.

Aisling (right) being very American and Emma (left) planning her next upgrade

Another interesting character was Andrew who unfortunately left the trip in Ushuaia. He also had a very caustic sense of humour and the misfortune to support Leicester. he probably had best plan in Leaving in Ushuaia and flying to BA and Foz as well as a few more interesting places than the truck went. The last of the big characters was Mike a 72 year old Dane living in Canada, while he kept himself to himself had some great stories. Aslo surprisingly ended up having Di, the 60 odd year old English woman as his nemisis. Just about everything they did seem to annoy each other. Di herself was a bit out of place on this trip, but kept on going to the end.

Mike, in his favorite seat

His nemesis, Di

The other two irish girls on trip were Gail and Bobby, though they again seemed to have lived very little in Ireland, a bit of a common theme. Gail actually was only person to completely leave trip. Having flown to Ba from Ushuaia she then jumped on a different overland trip, though her escape was not complete as did keep bumping into that truck as well. Bobby was one on the main party people, spent more time seeing inside of bars than south america. Also seemed to spend an awful lot of time with Pat, an ex-rugby player from Walsall who wanted to be called Maverik. Also in the party group were Annie, slightly mad from London. Actually invented a different name for everyone on the truck and always wore pink.
Bobby, an irsish girl who liked a drink (big surprise)

Also in this group was Emma, though tende to keep hersekf to herself a bit more. Perhaps person least likely to be on trip given she didnt like camping and upgrade most places to a hotel and flew between places as well.

There were three other single women on trip, Rachel, who had worked on crusie ship for last 10 years and been to over a hundred countries. Seemed fairly normal except for a pet toy hamster called Starsky she took everywhere and was writing stories about. There was also Jenny, a nurse who was far too jovial and happy in the mornings for my liking and finally Anita, who thankfully left the trip in Ushuaia. She worked in personnel (human resources as she called it) and reinforced all my stereotypical predjuces against the profession. Both Annie and Anna also worked in this area and were perfectly normal pleasant people, but wont let that affect my biased position.

There was one further single guy, Austrain Alex. At one point there were 4 Alex's on trip as a driver was also called Alex. Alex was completely mad and up for everything. Did all the trips and activities yet was also out partying all night. Left in Ushuaia to do a Antarctic voyage, a sad loss to the trip.

There were then the four people who joined in Ushuaia, June, a bit of a space cadet at times who could wander off on her own planet. Did get a little bit sold down river when she joined as most other people had either flown to BA or moved to a hotel. She was off to do a trip with another company and be interesting to see which was better. Also had two 18 year old schoolgirls on gap year join. While they could be a bit girlish, wre quite mature. Indeed one, allegedly ended up sleeping with the 30+ driver. Finally had Lenny the girlfriend of the other driver turn up. Faor to sya she slightly changed the dynamics of the trip.

Bella (left) and Lizzy (right), guess who was"friends" with the driver

2006-03-01T14:59:00.000-08:00

Rio

A major change, the rain has stopped, the sun come out and all the other trucks have left, Paraty does not look too bad. Went for a boat trip down the coast, which was pretty cool. Did some swimming and snorkling and am now ready for Rio.

Last drive and everyone is in good mood as have seen sign saying Rio is only 250km and even our drivers should be able to find Rio ? Indeed managed to arrive by mid afternoon and despite a few problems at hotel, first two rooms allocated were already taken but third time lucky. Big news is that there is a massive game at Maracana tomorrow, two Rio teams Flamengo and Botafogo are playing. After a fruitless night on internet and phone decide to take the overpriced hotel package tickets to ensure a seat as seems it has sold out.

Have a city tour organised as part of trip but as game starts at 4.00pm can only do first part, especially, as usual, the bus is an hour late. First stop Sugar Loaf Mountain, keeping an eye out for people with metal teeth (James Bond, Moonraker) take the cable car. To be honest dont think need metal teeth to cut the cables, does not inspire confidence, but anyway make it to top. Fantastic views of Rio. City is built between mountains that come down to the sea and are either covered in houses or rain forest. Cant believe that they would build a city here. Great view of the statue of Christ on the opposite mountain and can see Cobacabana, Ipenema beaches and Maracana, just a pity have to dash off to get to the football.
Top of Sugar Loaf, who is that bloke on hill behind

Slightly worried as ever bus is late, but suddenly out of nowhere the Maracana appears, like a spaceship in middle of a slum. As soon as we get out bus can feel the atmosphere. These are supposed to be the two loony sets of fans, Celtic Rangers only bigger and segregation does not seem to be in evidence. Follow our guide in and emerge in the middle of the Flamengo fans in total mayhem. People, flags and drums everywhere, end up standing in the aisle. The whole bottom section is being rebuilt, hence lack of spaces. There are some spare seats in the Botafago (away) end but everywhere else pretty full.

After 5 minutes obvious this is not going to be 0 - 0. defense clearly not a priority and no one has heard of tracking back. End to end stuff and after 15 minutes Botafogo get a fairly blatent penalty, clearly the case as no riot in Flamengo end. Penalty scored but chances continue and Flamengo equalise after 30 min from a bit of a scramble. Flamango are now on top and fans in full voice. Just on half time looks like they ahve scored again, but offside, no doubt. However, worse to follow as Flamengos defence totally no existent and Botafogo score. The natives are definitely restless and hoping things dont get too bad. Second half starts and both fans and team seem refreshed it is all Flamengo and after 10 minutes 20 yard screamer into top corner. Just what you expect in Brazil. Game still end to end but with 15 mins left a great move down left results in a cross from byline being volleyed into corner from 25 yards. Flamengo fans go mad, total mayhem for next 5 minutes. Howver, still plenty of time for Bota to hit post and miss a couple of sitters before final whistle. Now comes trying to get out without being in middle of riot. Crowd control means making fans take shirts off with team colours. Girls are relieved they didnt buy replica kits. This of course has little effect, but police with very large batons manged to keep some sort of order till we get back on bus.

Yes it is me at the Maracana

Having survived the football decided to go on a tour of a flavella next day. Was a bit unsure about this as in the words of Blackadder ¨no gloaters¨. However, as it was run by people in flavella and money goes to improving conditions decided to go. It was actually very interesting. Had a good guide and at no point felt threatened or unsafe. It was surprising how clean it was and from the houses we saw, while they were small they did have a lot of mod cons, indeed seen far worse areas of UK. Not sure if these were the worst areas but definitely worth seeing.

Decided to venture a bit further from hotel and headed down to Ipanema and Cobacabana where there were some street parties going on. Streets were full of people and music, everyone really friendly and no hassles at all, though did have to haggle taxi driver down so I had enough money to get back to hotel.
Cobacabana from Sugar Loaf

After a serious lie in from night before headed off to Corcavada to see statue of Christ. A bit worried as very cloudy and cant actually see it from the street level. However, on plus side this means few tourists and instead of hour wait for the train up can get straight on. arrive and not good, can only see his feet. However, just like St Paul on his way to Damascus there was suddenly a bright light as the clouds lifted and sun came out. even better views than at Sugar Loaf and no tourists. From here headed down to check out Copacabana and Ipanema beaches in daytime. eaches nothing special themselves, but setting is fantastic, with sugar loaf and christ looking down.

Christ the Redeemer

Last night and it is off to the Sambadrome to see the big samba parade. These take place over two nights and have seven samba schools each night who get 90 minutes to do their thing. The winners get a big cash prize. Starts at 9.00pm and runs till6.00am, bit of a drawback as flight is at 8.00am. We have seats in section 13, last one, so can not actually see start which is a bit of a disappointment. Indeed parade has been going 30 minutes before see first people. These are a couple on stilts, then 5 minutes later and entire army comes into sight, with massive floats, one in particular has two giant tigers that is amazing. While they are supposed to be only 3000 people in each school looks more like 10,000.
After a 30 min break next parade starts, these are the favorites and the stands are now full and going mad, waving banners, flags and making a deafening noise and dancing along. Difficult to tell which of the two were best, but second lot appeared to have about 20,000 people. The third set look to have been intimidated and are no where near as good. As it is nearly 2.00am decide it is time for some sleep before heading off.

After the madness of Rio off to Quito to relax. This does not last long as my flight is delayed and on arrival at hotel am informed that my room has been sold. Partly my fault as I gave wrong flight number, but did say it was from Rio via Santiago and arrival time. Anyway, luckily have arrived at same time as an english girl who agrees to share as her room is a triple. After a serious lie in head off for a walk round old city which is UNESCO listed and has some great buildings. One thing that do notice is that it becomes like a ghost town after dark and definite edge to place and signs in hotel not to walk anywhere after dark.

Central Quito, chuch central and all full as it is Ash Wednesday

Next day take local bus to monument at equator and get sprayed with gunge at a bus stop. an old scam as bloke offer to hold bag while you clean up. He of course disappears with bag. While nothing taken is a pain having to walk round with what looks like a mixture of mustard and ketchup on trousers. Still if this is worst then not too bad. Faith restored in Ecuador by some locals at monument who take my photo with one foot in each hemispere and buy me a drink.

Astride the world

Well the end of south America and it is off to central America for stage two.

2006-02-22T09:43:00.000-08:00

Just about to go for a dip

The Jesuit Ruins

Waterfalls

Having visited Uruguay returned to Buenos Aires for one final day where I had a look round La Boca and San Telmo, both of which were very touristy. However, final evening went to a local fiesta on outskirts of Buenos Aires which was very authentic and at which were very few tourists. The fiesta is held every saturday in February and had a samba band as well as numerous other singers and bands, as well as crafts stalls and dancing lessons. All the locals were well into it and completely igored us, which was fantastic.

The local samba band

Next morning it was on the road for last leg to Rio. First stop was Carlos Pelligini, which is a town and not an ex-footballer. This is in the middle of nowhere and is a large wetland area with lots of wildlife. Unfortunately most of it was human as a further 4 overland trucks were at same camp site. At least they left the next morning and had chance to do a boat tour and some walking. Saw lots of birds as well as caymen (small alligators), capybara (largest rodent in world) and howler monkeys, who didnt make a sound while we were there.

A cayman, not happy at being disturbed

After this was a big drive upto the Iguassu Falls, mysteriously decided to take a 300km detour, just so we would arrive late at night as far as we could tell. This seemed to be a theme to this part of trip as had spent a couple of hours driving round in circles looking for a camp site on way to Carlos Pelligrini. On the way stopeed at a ruined Jesuit Mission, which actually inspired the film the Mission. A pretty impressive place, unfortunately had little time there to make up for all the detours.

Next day set off for falls, unfortunately, continuing the getting lost theme the drivers went the wrong way. An almost impossible task as this is the biggest tourist attraction in Argentina and was only 5km from where we camped. Finally arrived an hour later, but was worth the wait. An absolutely amazing site, hundreds of massive waterfalls. The biggest of which is called the Devils Throat. Can not actually see the bottom, only spay from the amount of water. The falls are right in the jungle and saw some Toucans, as well as more monkeys and caipors (a raccoon). In the afternoon did a boat ride under the falls, and I mean under the falls. Not the really big one, but did go under two fairly big ones. Would have been drier if I had gone for a swim.

The Devils Throat

Next day crossed into Brazil to see falls from the Brazil side as they are on the border. The Argies have banned the helicopter flights on there side due to them disturbing the wildlife. Brazil refuses to do this so the Argies now wont allow Brazil to run boat trips under falls as these are on their side. Have to say I am with the Argies on this as the helicopters were annoying me. While yo cant get as close on the Brazil side you do get a great view of all the falls , showing just how many there are.

From here set off on drive from hell to Rio. If things had been bad before reached a new low over the next three days, getting lost numerous times. Either boiling hot or monsoon rain, drives which were supposed to take 4 hours taking 10 and arrived at one of the worst places I have ever stopped in all my travels in a monsoon to be confronted by another 15 overland trucks. Am now on the internet which is slowest I have ever known. In 90 minutes has downloaded 1 photo. It ususally takes 90 minutes to download 100. Hopefully Rio will make up for things, but so far Brazil is very near the bottom of all the countries I have visited and to make matters worse is pretty expensive to boot.

2006-02-11T06:35:00.000-08:00

Buenos Aires

Well having reached the end of the road the only thing to do is turn round and come back again. Before doing this however took time out to cruise the Beagle Channel in the footsteps of Darwin. Also a chance to catch up on sleep and do some serious eating. Argentina is definitely the place for steaks, thoughthe lamb and the fish are both excellent, as well, and portions come in large and extra large. At one place I think they actually served an entire cow on my plate. The one thing they have not heard of is vegatables.

The end of the road

From Ushuaia it was back on the road, upto Buenos Aires, a mere 3000km. First thing was to try and re-cross the Magellan strait, which proved a slight problem as the bad weather, for which the area is renown had set in. Luckily we only had a four hour wait for the ferry, apparantly it took Magellan, who is Portuguese I am reliably informed, 3 months to get through.

Anyway due to the delay meant we stopped at what was a stately home masquerading as a hotel, even having baths. Unfortunately with so far to drive didn´t have too muchtime to make the most of this and were off again very early. Accomodation was from the sublime to the ridiculous the next night, camping at a service station on a pet cemetry. Obviously not that odd in Argentina as by morning there were another dozen people camped there.

Camping on a Pet Cemetery

From here it was on to the Valdez Peninsular, stopped off at Camiones to see a few penguins, 30,000 in fact. Even though there were set paths for humans the penguins didn´t take much notice and you could shake hands with them if youwanted to take the risk. Stayed at Purto Madryn at a terrible campsite, bring back the pet cemetry. Had an all night disco blaring out and drag racers seemed to be racing round the compound. From here visited the Valdz peninsular, where David Attenborough filmed the killer whale taking the seals off the beach. However,in February they have all left. Saw a few lonly seas and sealions, the odd penguin and no whales. The one thing we did see were armadillo´s, which are excellent creatures. The truck also managed to get stuck again, though this time we managed to dig it out without any help.

Look, where´s my fish

Look, don´t touch

From Puerto Madryn there was a major improvement in the roadsand two fairly short, 10 hours driving, days and a couple of decent camp sites. One was at an old nunnery withit´s own shrine meant we got into Buenos Aires with no further problems.

An armadillo

The first thing to do was to see a game of football and headed off to see River Plate, who are one of the big two,the other being Boca Juniors, home team of Maradonna, and as such can not under any circumstance be supported. The stadium holds arout 80,000, and is where the 1978 World Cup final was played. The crowd was about 50,000 so atmosphere was bit lost. Also would have helped if the opposition had actually thought they could win. As it was a comfortable 2-0 for River. Oddest thing wasthe home fans were locked in after gameto let the away fans leave first.

Next day had a wander round Buenos Aires. It is a very cool city, no must see things, but very safe and fairly inteesting. Did go to the Recoleta cemetry, cemetry being the theme to this part of the tour. Amazing place, Evita is buried here, but hers is a very small grave compared with most of the others. Apparantly she wasn´t really posh enough to get in but her family had a plot. Her husband didn´t make it despite being president twice.

Evita´s grave, one of the most inconspicuous there

Being here for a few days took the chance to take ferry across to uruguay, the first new country on the trip. Went to a small old colonial town, appropriately called Colonia. Very quaint with cobbled streets and lots of antique shops and galleries, great place to relax before heading off on the next stage up to Rio.

2006-01-13T10:37:00.000-08:00

Chile

First stop on the south american leg of the trip was Santiago. Other than arriving before I left, the conundrum of crossing the international dateline backwards, had a good flight and no problems sorting out soemwhere to stay. One of the advantages of being to a city previously.

Santiago pretty much the same as before, like any other big city anywhere in the world. Chile being probably one of the safest and most expensive counties in south america. Having done all the tourist stuff before head off to Vina del Mar, on the coast for a few days.

Vina is the holiday mecca for all chileans and as such took on a bit of the feel of a spanish costa, especially over the weekend, where space on the beach was at a premium. A lot better in the week when the numbers were less. A pleasant place but nthing special. Went upto Valparaiso, whch is only a few km down road. This was a bit more interesting, being a proper city. Built on cliffs overlooking the ocean, as such a few streets on the flat before a set of lifts (or boxes on rails) take you to the top of the cliffs, bit like Scarborough with a spanish feel.

Had one day back in Santiago on the way to Pucon and join the organised bit of the trip. Taking an overland truck down to Tierro del Fuego and then round to Rio. There are 21 people on truck and seem to be a few "odd" characters. Ages from 24 - 72 with mainly Brits, a couple of Americans, who like most Americans you meet outside America seem normal, peraps they have to pass a test to be given a passport. Also another American who appears who clims to be irish, another common theme. There are also two proper Irish people a Dane living in Canada, a Greek and an Austrian. Bit surprised that the are no Aussies, but must be thankful for small mercies. Last place I have been on the tour before starting the trip proper.

Pucon pretty much the same as before, though can actually see the volcano, unlike last time. Having already walked three quaters of the way last time I was here when the weather changed decided not to do it again. Typically weather remained good all day. Anyway I went and did some white water rafting on rapids Class III-IV, good fum, but only two hours on the river.

After a couple of days in Pucon headed over the border into Argentina and on to Bariloche. Some fantastic scenary on the way, with volcanos, mountains and lakes. Even a volcano at the border crossing. Unfortunately the truck I am on does not like going up hills so the going was slow and could be some long trips ahead. Despite an early start still did not arrive in Bariloche till 10.00pm and went straight to the resteraunt, before actually getting to hotel past midnight, a pretty miserable hotel as well. Staring to get a bit worried about the trip. However, Bariloche is beautiful, situated on a lake surrounded by mountains. Took a mountain bike and did a circuit of the lake, which was 65 km. Some fantastic views and had a great time till fell off a couple of kilometers from home. Luckily the bike was the only thing hurt.

Volcano´s everywhere, this one was at the border post between Chile and Argentina

Mountain biking in Bariloche,
downhill good,
uphill bad

From Bariloche headed on to El Chaletan, via three days driving through Patagonia. Camped the first night by a lake, which was very scenic, very wet and very cold, a couple of people on the trip went swimming in the morning, completely mad. Unfortunately as we tried to leave the truck got bogged down due to the rain. Took two hours before a passing bulldozer pulled us out. Then proceeded to spend another hour having cream tea in a welsh village, yes still in Argentina, they even speak welsh with a welsh accent. Luckily we had a couple of welsh people with us or dont think they would have served us, being English. By the time we reached camp site was 1.00am, could be a long trip.

Truck in trouble, unfortunately tobecome a common theme

No drama on the next couple of days though the main things to note about Patagonia are that it is very, very big and very, very windy. However, the travelling was worth it when we arrived in El Chaletin. Town is just like the wild west, with unpaved street and a high wind covering everything in dust. This does feel like the end of the world. The town is situated beneath the Cerro Torre and Fitzroy Mountains and has amazing views. Did a hike first day to foot of Cerro Torre which was about 8 hours and second day did a horse ride to Fitzroy. The riding was with a bunch of cowboys who gave no instructions and wanted to go so fast that one suspected they had just robbed the local bank. Apparantly Butch and Sundance did, though every town round here seems to claim this. One of the group managed to fall into the river when his horse refused to cross, but despite this had a pretty good time and views were amazing and was better than walking.

The Cerro Torre and Fitzroy Ranges

Head south from El Chaletin to El Calefate, suffering from a bit of a cold at this point so relieved to get to a very nice hostal. El Calefate is a bit touristy, especially after El Chaletin and is base to go and see Moreno glacier. Now this is a proper glacier, 60 foot high, 4 km across and pieces the size of a house falling off with an almost sonic boom. Took a boat trip to face of glacier and felt very small. At one point looked like there might be a Titanic incident with the various icebegs floating around.

Moreno glacier, lookout for icebegs

From El Calafate onto Torres del Paine. Truck got stuck yet again. Going through some roadworks when the road collapsed and truck sunk into its axles. At least there was a bulldozer on hand to pull us straight out. Had a quick stop in Punta Natales and then on to the Torres del Paine . Weather was pretty miserable when we arrived and no sign of the famous mountains. Nextmorning still little sign of them, though something was looming out of the clouds and by lunch time they had made an appearance. Took a hike up to a view point El Condor, which gave a great view and saw some condors on the way. Wind reached a new level, was actually blown of my feet on the way down.

Day two and weather still poor but as I am here decided to do the hike to the main lookout. Three others from the trip decided to go as well, if it hadn`t been for getting up at 6.00am would probably have not gone but having got up early felt had to go. Spent most of the way up in and out of rain, just as it got really miserable the sun would come out. A couple of places mountain stream had turned into raging torrents and had to go across on fallen trees. The last bit was straight up a bolder strewn vertical face, but just as I made it to the top the clouds cleared, the sun came out and had a great view of the three towers. Another four hours back down, the last in pretty heavy rain, and the most expensive can of coke at the bottom, but still a good day.

Day three at Torres and very much in recouvery mode. Short walk to the exclusice hotel for afternoon tea being the major activity. From here onto the last leg down to Tierra del Fuego. A very long days drive, having to cross the Chile - Argentine border twice, due to the natural resources down here the border is very important and there are mnefields both sides. Just as it looked like we might arrive at a reasonable hour (before midnight) the fuel tank got punctured by a piece of exhaust pipe that was lying on the road. After an hours work the drivers managed to rig up system bypassing the holed tank and got across the second border and found a hostel to stay. A short drive next day and into Ushuaia, the southern most city at the end of the world. Actually it is very well developed and staying in about best hostel of the trip. It is however, very expensive. A few days here to rest up, see the Beagle Channel, Cape Horn and then head back north to Buenos Aires and Rio.

2006-01-04T21:35:00.000-08:00

New Zealand

Am just about to leave New Zealand, or as it now appears to be called Middle Earth. Just about every local claimed to have been either an orc or an elf in the film and every village had at least one location, and were prepared to give a tour at a reasonable price. Passed lots of locations just driving round anyway.

My trip started in Christchurch, which is very British. Just think Oxford or Stratford without the American tourists. Picked up a hire car here, which had no acceleration, no rear windscreen wiper, no CD and not much in the way of brakes. Despite this has proved very reliable and has just got to get me to the airport tomorrow.

From Christchurch headed up to Arthur's Pass, which is in the middle of the southern Alps and the centre on lord of the rings country. Did a bit of hiking up here before heading onto Greymouth. The word grey is an apt discription, though closed would be equally appropriate. From greymouth went to see the pancake rocks, which were not that pancacke like, but were at least rocklike.

Next stop was the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers, which were very impressive. Did a hike on the Franz Josef glacier on New Years Day. After an hour or so of getting used to walking with spikes on my boots, thought could be falling down a crevasse at any momment, got the hang of things and had a great time. As can see from photo am now ready for Everest assault.

After Franz Josef headed down the west coast via Haast, Wanaka and Queenstown, though as it rained for two days solid didn't see or do that much. Luckily the rain stopped when I got to Milford Sound. Took a boat trip on the sound, impressive scenary as you can see. Also did some hiking, but as you have to carry your own food and water kept this down to a day trip.

From Milford Sound headed back to Christchurch via Dunedin. East coast not as interesting as the west, though considerably less rain. Have one more night in Christchurch before flying out to South America for the next leg of the trip.

2005-12-27T19:51:00.000-08:00

Setting Off

Thought it was about time I entered the 21st century and tried to set up my own web site. Hopefully everything works and this will be my first entry.

After a couple of years in Oz am heading back to the UK with a few stop overs in New Zealand, South America and time and money permitting Central America.

I have been staying in Melbourne for the last two years, a view from my flat attached below

A few of the highlights of my time in Oz have been;

England winning the Rugby World Cup
Spending 4 months at a sewerage works in the middle of nowhere and just to add to things it was opposite an abatoir
Liverpool winning the Champions League
Being in a Cherry Picker which collapsed
England winning the Ashes
Having an entire country full of Australians to remind about the Ashes (especially Don and Dylan)
Being paid to travel round Australia (even went to some good bits)
Trips to Kakadu, Fiji and Tasmania
The friendly locals (see below)

Anyway deciding it was time to let the Aussies win a few things I thought I would leave the country for a few months. Not to worry as I will be back for the Ashes next year.